You may have come across this video, which went viral on social media, comparing the number of banned ingredients in cosmetics across three regions: the United States, Japan, and the European Union.

In it, a hand places a few grains of rice above the American flag, a few more above the Japanese flag, and then dumps two entire handfuls above the EU flag. Each grain of rice represents a banned ingredient. This video was published by an American haircare brand to raise awareness about the low number of substances banned in cosmetics in the United States.

Regarding the United States, the Food and Drug Administration’s website does indeed list 11 ingredients banned in cosmetics. For Japan, the website of the Japanese Ministry of Health lists 30 substances completely prohibited in cosmetics, while other substances are only allowed under certain conditions. Finally, the EU has indeed banned 1,751 ingredients, according to the European Commission.

Stricter European regulation

But why is there such a big difference? Does this actually mean beauty products are safe in the EU? Well, there’s at least some hints that they are – comparatively – safer.

First of all, the EU applies something known as the “precautionary principle”, which means that companies must prove a chemical product is safe before it can be marketed. In the United States, it’s the opposite: a chemical is only banned once it’s been proven harmful.

It is also important to note that the European Union regularly adds new substances to its long list of banned ingredients. For example, on September 1st, 2025, 21 new substances were banned in the EU. Among them is TPO, a substance used particularly in nail polish. 

TPO allows semi-permanent nail polish to dry quickly when placed under a UV or LED lamp. However, according to scientific studies, this substance may affect fertility. The EU therefore decided to ban all products containing it. 

Some professionals criticised the measure as having been implemented too quickly, leading to financial losses for nail salons. But others welcomed the decision.

“It is important in cosmetic products, especially in nail art, which has many chemical products, to evolve in the right direction. Above all, we must protect our health,” Mélanie, a nail technician in Rungis, told ChatEurope.

Regulations not always enforced

But even though the EU has implemented many measures to protect consumers, one might still wonder if this is enough.

In 2023–2024, ECHA (the European Chemicals Agency) conducted a survey in 13 European countries. It inspected the list of ingredients of thousands of cosmetic products. Of the 4,500 inspected cosmetics, it found that 285 – or 6% – contained substances that were, in fact, banned. These substances were found in products such as eyeliners and hair conditioners.

The EU therefore still needs to ensure that its many bans are actually enforced. In the meantime, ECHA recommends that consumers carefully check the ingredient list on the label before using a product.

Special attention should be paid to ‘perfluorononyl dimethicone’ and ‘cyclopentasiloxane (D5)’, as these were the most frequently found banned substances during their investigation.

Justine Hagard